Shanghai Bilang Talking about the Corresponding Treatment Method for the Fault of Constant Temperature Oil Bath
Constant temperature oil bath is made of high-quality stainless steel and advanced technology, with digital display temperature measurement. All performance indicators meet the requirements of national standards. It has the advantages of high temperature control accuracy, strong corrosion resistance, compact structure, energy saving, and long service life. It is widely used in biological, physical, plant, chemical, environmental protection and other scientific fields. Or auxiliary heating precision constant temperature. It is an ideal tool for laboratory technicians in major colleges, environmental protection, scientific research, health, epidemic prevention, petroleum, metallurgy, chemical, medical and other units.
The following is the solution to the failure of the constant temperature oil bath:
* Temperature setting and temperature measurement are normal but not heated. First judge from the screen display, first turn on the power, adjust the set temperature to more than 20 ℃ above the design temperature, and then observe whether the heating indicator light is on, if it is on, it means the heating tube is broken or the relay contact is because of long-term use The middle contact is ablated, which makes it impossible to connect, so it cannot be heated, and it needs to be replaced. It can also be checked by a multimeter. The check method is to turn off the power and use a multimeter to check whether the resistance (10 ohm) is low in resistance (oil bath heating tube) The resistance is generally <100 ohms. If the resistance is large, the heating tube must be broken. The resistance is normal, and the relay is mostly damaged.
* The temperature setting and temperature measurement are normal, but continue to heat when the temperature reaches the set temperature (for the oil bath used for the first time, because of the microcomputer PID control method, there will be overtemperature, but the overtemperature will generally not exceed 10 ℃, It needs better effect after self-tuning for the first time). Observe whether the heating indicator goes off after reaching the set temperature. If it goes off, it means that the temperature controller is normal, just replace the relay. If the heating indicator is always on, the temperature The controller is broken and needs to be replaced.
* After using for a period of time, it is found that the temperature cannot be increased, mostly because the resistance of the heating tube becomes larger or the connection line with the heating tube is rusted, which causes the contact resistance to become larger. The rusty part of the pipe joint is cleanly treated, and the new connection is acceptable. The judgment method of the two can be visually checked.
* After setting the temperature, the temperature measurement shows a drop, but the actual temperature is in a heated state, (K sensor is applicable, PT100 sensor will not have this phenomenon) This phenomenon mostly occurs in the replacement of new sensors, just change the positive and negative sensors That's it.
* The display shows 000 or 999, etc., it means the sensor is open or short circuit, just replace it.
* There is no power supply for the whole machine. Check whether there is electricity in the power socket, whether the fuse is intact, and whether the power switch is faulty. This fault is mostly due to damage to the power switch.
* The power indicator is on, but there is no screen display on the temperature controller. Check whether the output of the temperature controller is normal. Generally, this kind of fault is mostly because the transformer on the temperature controller is broken or there is a virtual welding phenomenon during use.
Because the super constant temperature oil bath has a circulation function, if the circulation pump is not turned, this phenomenon is mostly because the capacitor has no capacity, and it can be replaced. (Judgment method: turn on the power switch, turn on the circulation pump power, and turn the motor shaft by hand. If it turns, it means the capacitor is bad. If it doesn't, the motor is faulty.
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