Excerpts from: Rock climbing Technical Report - Chapter Two, Section I (Li Yulin)
Many sports-loving friends often engage in physical activity when they are engaged in sports activities, or they often start to perform the exercise by changing their sports clothing. They may not know that they have had side effects on the body and physiology, acute injuries (such as fractures, tendon tears) and chronic Injuries (such as fatigue fractures, wear of the joint capsule) will follow, and the occurrence of sports injuries will not only make you less enjoyment of sports for a short period of time. In more serious cases, you may not be able to engage in the sport again.
Warm-up is often part of physical training in general sports books. However, for rock climbing enthusiasts, it is recommended that in terms of basic techniques, "fatigued physical training will not produce results. Warm-up deficits will have sports injuries. The crisis is in". The warm-up of good and bad will obviously affect the climbing technique because its effect is:
First, it can increase the speed and strength of muscle contraction.
Second, it can improve muscle coordination.
Third, it can prevent or reduce the damage of muscles, tendons and ligaments.
Fourth, in the endurance sports project, it can accelerate the emergence of "regeneration gas" (commonly known as the wall-hit period).
Fifth, reduce pressure.
Six, increase the fun of sports.
The physiological mechanism is:
First, muscles contract and relax faster.
Second, due to reduced muscle viscosity, the muscle contraction efficiency improved.
Third, to enhance the ability of hemoglobin to bind and release oxygen.
Fourth, the metabolic process improves.
Fifth, the reduction of vascular wall resistance.
Sixth, the sensitivity and nerve conduction speed of the nerve sensor can be improved due to proper elevation of body temperature.
Seventh, body temperature rises, can stimulate the blood vessel to expand.
The following is a detailed description of warm-up:
Warm-up exercise: Any preparation before sports, such as stretching muscles, body swings, and full runs, is called warm-up exercise. There are usually three stages of warm-up (called warm-up three-step), one is general exercise, the second is soft exercise, and the third is psychological preparation.
First, systemic exercise: It is mainly to let all bodily functions heat up, generally to achieve results with jogging, such as running around the climbing site.
Second, soft exercise: it is a muscle stretching exercise, so that the body's muscles, joints, ligaments first do a slow stretch, so that the body's blood circulation gradually accelerated. This helps the body to adapt to the increased speed of the heartbeat, the muscles and the nervous system. There are two ways to stretch:
(1) Passive or static: It means that there will be no vigorous force stretching from top to bottom or back and forth, but it will remain in the last stretch position for some time.
(b) Active or elastic: It includes vigorous exercise from top to bottom or back and forth, but it does not stop at the last extended position.
Both stretching activities have improved softness, but static methods may be better because:
1. Compare the risk of no organizational injury;
2. Less energy consumption
3. Has the effect of avoiding or eliminating muscle tension or soreness.
The basic principle of static stretching: tighten muscles first, then relax, and then stretch again.
Tighten: Use some kind of resistance to tighten the muscles or muscles and maximize the force without contracting the muscles. Keep this position for 12-20 seconds;
Relax: Relax 2-3 seconds;
Stretch: gently stretch the muscles as far as possible until a little pain, at this time, the stretch has a feeling of being stretched, and maintain this position for 12-20 seconds.
Some guidelines for stretching:
1. Elastic type first do centrifugal (away from the heart) joints, such as wrist ankle joints, and then do near heart joints, such as the neck joint;
2. The static stretching should start with a larger joint and then move to the delicate part to ensure that each group of muscles can stretch enough;
3. Stretching must be performed before and after exercise, even during exercise.
4. To increase softness, it must be done regularly, at least three to four times a week, and gradually increase the intensity and time;
5. When the body is injured and the muscles, joints, or tendons feel pain, stretching exercises should be suspended;
6. Exercise with natural breathing and stretching when stretching.
Mental preparation:
This stage is the last step before the exercise. It is psychologically used to guide the physiological functioning to moderate operation. For example, besides trying to warm the water, it is also prepared to prepare for the water. When rock climbing, this step is to touch the rock, let the hands and toes feel the rock face, but also psychologically prepared to engage in this exercise. It takes 20-30 minutes for warm-up exercises to be effective. Every rock climber should not regard his own health as a child's play and moderate warm-up to enjoy the fun of climbing.
Cool-down Exercise: In fact, after the body's circulatory system and musculoskeletal tissue have undergone intense exercise, they have to go through a buffer period before they can make the blood pressure and heartbeat pulse and return to normal exercise. During the buffer period, the athletes need to perform a series of muscle stretching exercises so that the heart rate can gradually decrease, blood flow is smooth, and lactic acid accumulation is reduced. The mitigation exercise (someone called dynamic rest) must be implemented at the end of the exercise. It is forbidden to use complete rest. The muscle stretching done by the mitigation exercise is roughly the same as the muscle stretching done during the warm-up.
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